I believe there are two kinds of paddlers in the Everglades. One kind has goals
relating to paddling. These paddlers use the Everglades as the means to an end,
the end being a goal. There is another kind of paddler for whom paddling is a
means to the end, the end being the Everglades. For this paddler, the goal is to
become intimately acquainted with the Everglades. It is not about the mileage for this
paddler; rather, it is the quality of time spent exploring an area and returning to it
again and again to learn the well kept secrets of the Everglades. The Everglades
call individuals and only some choose to listen. For them, being in the Everglades is
like being in love. It is being so enamored that annoying habits or wild mood swings
can be ignored or even cherished. That is my relationship with the Everglades,
because I am of the second kind of paddler. Paddling, although a wonderful activity
and likely the most appropriate means of exploring the glades, it is simply a means
to an end.
It was with this trip that I came to the above realization and that mileage has little to
do with my quest to explore the Everglades. Typically this time of year we come here
for 9 days at a time and are on the water before the 25th. At first, I felt disappointed
at our itinerary that did not begin until Dec 28th, cut short due to the holidays and
the desire to spend them with family. But then I began to see the significance of this
trip for me. Besides the fact that I was simply exhausted from the previous weeks of
work, I began to look forward to the low mileage, sleeping in a bit later than normal
and the increased time I could spend in one place. I was particularly interested in
spending time near Plover Key where I might find some bird action. Not exactly the
itinerary we hope for, our total mileage was only 48 miles (give or take) including
one day to explore while base camped. We began and ended on Chokoloskee
Island at Outdoor Resorts:
Day 1: Mormon Key, 13.5 miles
Day 2: Mormon Key, explored around Turkey and Plover Keys, 9.5 miles
Day 3: Watsons Place, 4 miles
Day 4: Sweetwater Chickee, 4 miles
Day 5: Lopez River, 12 miles
Day 6: Chokoloskee Island, 4.5 miles
Day 1
My paddling partners were seasoned Everglades paddlers, Vivian in her Hemlock
Kestrel canoe, Mike in her Rapidfire canoe, and me in my Wenonah vagabond
canoe. Thankfully, Mike had made the drive the day before to buy the permits. On
Dec 27th, she stood in line with outward bounders and several other parties all
clamoring for prime camping sites. We wanted to base camp on Turkey Key and
then head up the Chatham River into the backcountry. We did not get what we
wanted, but did come close to it. With the itinerary, we had a little of everything to
look forward to; the gulf and beach camping, incoming tide on the river, ground sites
in the backcountry and a night on a chickee. After two nights of sand and beach
camping, the backcountry would be a welcome change.
By the time sunrise began, the temperature had risen to a whopping 38 degrees.
But what a beautiful, calm morning it was. The sky was cloudless and the air warmed
up to a mild mid-70s. Mike, a tried and true kayaker was testing out her Rapidfire
canoe in the gulf and began to feel more comfortable with it. On another day while
paddling up the Chatham River, she tried Vivian’s ZRE bent shaft canoe paddle and
was thoroughly impressed with how well she moved her boat through the water. At
the time of this writing, she probably has her new canoe paddle in the mail.
Transitioning from kayak to canoe is not everyone’s choice, but I made that choice a
few years ago and never looked back. I loved my kayak, but I love my canoe even
more.
We stopped for a quick break near Split Key, at about the half way point. While
standing and preparing to embark again, we noticed a very large dolphin feeding in
the water nearby. The sand bar we stood upon was quite high and from our
perspective, we could look down at the water and see the entire dolphin underwater.
I noticed that as it approached shallower water, it turned sideways and a couple
times rolled 360 degrees. I could clearly see its eyes in the water as it moved like a
torpedo while skillfully capturing bait fish. Then it approached the sand bar and
zoom, it was moving like the speed of lightning toward us and then circled around,
leaving a donut-shaped wake behind it. An awesome mammal, the dolphin is a fierce
predator to the fish in the water. But for us today, it was a good omen, always a
lucky way to begin a trip.
Heading toward Duck Rock cove area I spotted a couple ducks in the water about
500 ft or so away. From their silhouettes, they appeared to look like loons. I have
heard and seen loons out here before so was not surprised at such a thing. In fact,
after arriving back in Chokoloskee, a captain friend told us that he has seen two
loons in that area quite frequently. Soon, we were nearing Duck Rock where dozens
of white pelicans were resting. With a strong overhead sunlight, their white feathers
appeared to glow, irresistible as I allowed my boat to drift toward the tiny avian
inhabited island and get closer for some photos. Almost twice the size of the brown
pelican, the white pelican appears awkward as it lumbers along the shell mound with
its very short legs. The water glistened as I attempted to capture the highly lit scene
as best as I could from my boat.
After having calm waters for the first 13 miles of the trip, within about a half mile of
Mormon Key, the northwest winds picked up intensely creating an aggressive surf
toward the beach. I paddled ahead of the others to check out the northeast end of
the island. After inspecting it, it did not appear to have enough room for 2 tents and
a comfortable camp area. I got back into my boat with Mike nearby in the water. I
gave Vivian the signal from my VHF radio to stay on course toward the southwest
side of the island, the more popular camp area. By now the winds were gusting to 25
knots and likely a steady 15-20. I felt its full force as I rounded the corner of the
island toward the shoreline where Vivian had reached ground with her boat. Mormon
Key, being littered with clam and conch shells is not a friendly shoreline. With an
incoming tide at the nearby mouth of the Chatham River and the high northwest
winds, the surf was violent. All 100 lb of Mike struggled to paddle against the head
wind and managed to get to ground about 200 feet from Vivian’s boat. Vivian was
there to help Mike control her boat and get it safely up on ground. I paddled over to
Vivian’s boat and brought the bow to a screeching halt. The powerful surf pushed
my boat further and further along the oyster shells as I got one foot out and then
another while bracing the boat. I attempted to bring it up to ground without scraping
it more and finally had it far enough above the waves to keep it dry. Once back at
home several days later, I inspected the damage. From previous shell encounters,
there were numerous scrapes and dings on the hull. But this time, Mormon Key
caused some severe gouges in about 3 different places on the hull. This required
more repair than I was use to, having exposed the Kevlar material below the gel
coat. Damn that Mormon Key!
Finally, we were all grouped together into a wooded area (not in the usual open
beach camp area) where we would seek refuge from the strong winds. We found an
area large enough for both tents and set up our camp. While eating dinner and
watching the sun disappear over the horizon, the temperature had dropped
considerably and the winds continued to blow. We built a campfire but the heat of it
failed to make me comfortable. I was wearing polyester underwear, nylon pants,
Marmot rain paints, long sleeve polyester shirt, fleece vest, Marmot rain jacket, and
fleece gloves and hat and I was still feeling the wind chill. It did not help that I
decided to cook our most difficult meal that evening, having to cut several
vegetables. I could not even enjoy my wine! But, there is a good side to all this; no
bugs and it was only a few weeks earlier we were uncomfortably hot out here as we
sipped our wine under the mosquito bug jackets.
That night, the temperature in our tent reached only 55 degrees and it had gotten
down into the 30s outside. The winds died down mostly and the silence of the low
tide was deep. We slept comfortably in our down bags knowing that tomorrow would
be a leisurely day and no need to get up early in the cold morning. Another
comforting feeling was that we had boiled water before going to bed and filled our
Nissan thermos so that we could enjoy our coffee and breakfast in the warmth of our
tent the next morning. And yet another comfort to us was that we did not expect any
rain on this trip and were confident of the forecast indicating warming temperatures
as the days progressed.
Days 2 and 3
I left Mormon key around 8:30 under a cloudy sky and brisk easterly winds. Still a bit
chilly, I had two layers and was wearing the hat and gloves. Soon after, the gloves
came off and an hour later, I was removing the fleece vest and later, the rain jacket
and pants. Finally, there were warm temperatures for paddling and what a gorgeous
day. Temps reached high 70s, and the seas eventually went dead calm. It was
cloudy most of the morning but cleared up as the day progressed. From Mormon
Key I headed toward the back entrance to Turkey Key. Several years ago while
camping on Turkey Key, we attempted to paddle through the channel on the north
end but it was completely impassable. Now, it is a deep channel which powerboats
can easily access near high tide. I figure the hurricanes shift things around so much
out here that nothing ever stays the same. That is what I love about this place.
I headed around to the tidal area on the northeast side of Turkey. The east winds
were still quite strong and the calmness did not come until after 10 am or so. I
noticed several willets resting on branches sticking out of the very shallow waters
near the mangroves. Thought I would paddle over and see what I could get. The
high tide at the mouth of the Chatham had already passed and water was beginning
to recede in this tidal area. I stayed with the birds for about a half hr before getting
into a situation that would require me to get out of the boat and pull it through the
mud flat. I glided gently over 2-4 in of water toward Buzzard key and rounded that
island toward Plover. This is a very shallow area but with little load in my boat, I
easily drifted along past Plover Key. By now the sky was clear and the seas were
calm. The sky was mostly blue. I was able to pass along the west side of the island
where a couple ospreys were actively fishing. I noticed a nest on the northwest point
of the island and paddled towards it. It was in good light and it appeared I would be
able to get out of the boat and walk to it. The nest was resting high in one of the tall
dead tree trunks, one of many. Soon, I was watching an osprey coming in with nest
branches. This continued several times. With the high sun, I would attempt for those
banking shots where the sun would hit the underside of the osprey’s beautiful wings.
Getting a shot of it coming into the nest was relatively easy, but with the cluttered
tree background, it was impossible to isolate the bird in its nest. Standing on firm
ground, it felt good to be out of the boat with the camera and telephoto lens for a
change, something I rarely get to do when out here, except at the campsites.
Completely content in the warm sun and calm seas, I paddled back to Mormon Key.
That evening, we enjoyed pleasant temperatures with mild breezes coming from the
southeast. The next day began early so we could photograph and fish around the
nearby mouth of the Chatham River with an incoming tide and early morning light.
The Chatham River enters the gulf near the Huston River separated by several
islands and Storter Bay. Large tidal areas and oyster and sand bars intermingle with
the mangroves creating a prime area for fishes and birds. Vivian wanted to fish and I
thought I might see some birds to photograph. The brown pelicans were in great
number in the area, many of them roosting in one particular mangrove island. From
some distance, I noticed several black birds roosting in an adjacent tree and then
watched several black vultures swirling in the sky behind them. All of a sudden, all
the vultures in the trees took off and flew away towards the flying birds. Within
seconds, they were all gone somewhere farther away. The brown pelicans stayed in
the canopy resting while I noticed a few actively diving. A juvy and an adult were
diving in tandem and seemed to like a specific spot for that. I hung with them for
awhile after attaching my flash. The current was strong making it difficult to
photograph much of anything.
Later, I paddled into a creek and started noticing large fish in the water. At first I
watched a school of mullet and then I noticed the redfish. I recognize them from the
black dot(s) on their fin. I always wondered about how different species evolve
distinguishing characteristics. For instance, what is the purpose of the black dot? I
asked Vivian about that and she says it acts to deceive the predators into thinking
the dot is an eye. Consequently, rather than going after the head, the predator goes
for the fin allowing the redfish to more easily escape. Pretty smart! I also noticed
some very large sheepshead in the water, and my understanding is that these are
very tasty fish. I called Vivian to get in there and soon, she was attempting to lure
fish, but unfortunately with no luck. Seems these fickle fish were not hungry at the
moment. Later, we learned that fishermen on Chokoloskee Island were bringing in
very large sheepshead and frying up some awesome tasting meals at the park.
Good for them!
We arrived at Watsons Place where a group of 6 canoeists had stopped for lunch
and one large tent occupied the site. It belonged to a family of powerboaters who
were heading back out to fish when we arrived. Consequently, we had the lay of the
land to set up our 2 tents. Shortly after, a couple kayakers, a brother and sister from
Miami pulled up. Vinni and Weber were their names and as always, our trips
introduce us to people that are as drawn to the Everglades as I am. We enjoyed the
evening at our camp with these 2 young spirits. They were having a great time
(never stopped smiling) despite a broken stove and no hot food to eat and no trees
to attach the hammocks to. After they cleverly set up their hammocks using their
kayak paddles, we shared dinner, wine and brandy with them. In return, they shared
their experiences and stories with us and made our evening enjoyable beyond
expectation. Weber, who would soon be starting medical school was on a quest to
explore the Everglades as much as possible before embarking on that journey. His
sister Vinni, visiting all the way from California was soaking up as much of the glades
as she could. They had a great time and we were happy to have shared some of
that with them.
There are interesting things to see on Watsons Place. We took a short walk behind
our camp and found the old foundation of Watson’s home. Apparently, there is a
gator living in the large structure and a couple kids at camp had spotted it (though
we did not see it). Another camp neighbor told us a bobcat had paid a visit the night
before and came right up the edge of the camp area. That’s not surprising because
there is a very good fresh water source for the animals at the campsite. There is a
large cistern and old maple syrup vat and both serve as watering holes for the
animals (I would not consider it filterable water by the way). We watched several
black vultures, one turkey vulture and a family of raccoons drinking from the water,
all while several people were camped nearby. We also saw a small screech owl
perched near Vinni and Weber's hammocks. I think it would be awesome to spend a
night without other campers and at dark, sit outside and quietly watch the animal
show.
Day 4 and 5
We took our time getting off Watsons Place, leaving behind our 2 friends and about
14 powerboaters. The sun was already high once we got on the water about 8:30
am. It was strange leaving our campsites so late in the morning, relatively speaking.
We are use to longer distances and getting started by 7-7:30 am, but this trip was
very different. We had no mileage to cover and could take our time and that was fine
with me. I had been battling a slight stomach ailment (not so bad as to think it was
the flu) and I suspect it came from something I had eaten. I had not been drinking as
much water as usual, but then again, I never felt thirsty or dehydrated, probably
because of the coolish temperatures we had been experiencing. It was not until the
next morning that I felt normal again, at which time my appetite came back in a big
way. Making up for lost time I guess.
The incoming made the ride up the Chatham an easy one. Winds were mild from the
southeast picking up to a brisk 10-15 knots by the time we reached Sweetwater
around noon. I stopped at the sand bar just past Watsons Place to photograph a
couple juvy white ibises that were busy feeding. Once in the creek leading to the
chickee, we passed four kayakers that had just left the chickee. We came to the
empty chickee to set up an early camp and then head out for some exploring. The
stiff winds made tent pitching a challenge. Best way we found to do that is to throw
some dry bags inside the tent while you rope off the corners. After a quick lunch, we
headed out to one of the creeks behind the chickee. From our GPS map, the creek
appeared to wind around and connect to Huston Bay. We thought we could follow it
but no further than 500-800 feet into the narrow passage that our course was
heading farther away from the map location. We would not find that route (which
likely does not exist) on this day. We heard that the sweetwater (freshwater spring)
was somewhere back in that area. A captain friend told us that the sweetwater came
out at the entrance of the creek leading to the chickee and that there was a deep
hole where it was located. Not sure about these things, but the area was called
sweetwater for a reason.
The winds gradually died down and we enjoyed another fine evening. Three older
women (older than us!) came in that afternoon to camp on the other platform. You
meet the most interesting people out here. They had gotten a bit lost trying to find
the creek leading to the chickee. The location of the chickee icon on the park map is
very deceptive and it is easy to get confused. Consequently, the ladies flagged a
boat captain and he was kind enough to give them a tow to the chickee, since it was
getting late in the afternoon. Nevertheless, they were having a great time and one of
the things you learn out here is never be afraid to ask for help.
The next morning, we got on the water at our usual time to beat the winds on the
bays. Instead of taking the wilderness waterway route through the bays into Lopez
River, we took our new favorite route that we refer to as “north water”. Water was
very low in certain spots but we had no problems getting through this isolated area.
We heard occasional powerboats running across the large Huston and Oyster Bays,
but we were away from all that. It was only the 3 of us and plenty of birds around.
Nesting osprey, several rafts of coots and several herons and egrets were around to
entertain us. We had a bonus seeing our first otter in the Everglades. We watched it
swim or slither up and down through one of the small bays we paddled across. The
head and midsection alternated out of the water as the otter swam expertly in
shallow waters in a pattern similar to a human doing the breaststroke.
Once we came out of the last creek that empties into the north end of Sunday Bay,
the southeast winds were strong. This meant a backwind or following seas for us as
we crossed toward marker 125. The winds gusted above 20 knots. I decided to not
turn into crooked creek that connects to Lopez River and instead took the
alternative route that I usually take in order to avoid the powerboat traffic. The
hairpin turns in crooked creek do not slow those boats down much and I would
rather avoid them. Unfortunately, this meant heading directly into the strong winds
on two turns, each covering a distance of several hundred feet. Once on the Lopez
River, the waters were more protected from the winds. We arrived early at the
campsite, which is only 4 miles from Chokoloskee Island. This campsite is one of my
favorites and if I have to sit in my camp chair and enjoy it throughout the afternoon
without needing to paddle anywhere, I can live with that. It is not about the mileage.
During our relaxing afternoon, we received visits from a group of kayakers that
stopped for a break and later, a lone kayaker who came in around 4:30 pm to camp.
He set up on the other side of the cistern and we did not see him again. By that time,
the mosquitoes were out, but not enough to wear the bug jacket. In fact, I never took
the bug jacket out on this trip and only sprayed my clothes with Deet on Watsons
Place. The sun set peacefully over the beautiful Lopez River and finally, it was
completely silent. Earlier, powerboats had passed by in high number, as usual. But
by dusk, they had all gotten back to the marinas or were already in their
backcountry campsites. This is the best time to be on the Lopez River. Throughout
the night, the only sound came from the barred owls saying “Who cooks for you”
Day 6
We were on the water before sunrise. We took our time with some fishing at the
mouth of Lopez arrived at Chokoloskee Island in time for breakfast at Havana Café.
Despite the low mileage of the trip, we had new experiences, made new
acquaintances, and I photographed more birds than usual for a trip. I lay awake in
my tent during the early morning on Lopez and could not help think that I was not yet
ready to leave this place. The Everglades is my journey, one paddle stroke at a time.
relating to paddling. These paddlers use the Everglades as the means to an end,
the end being a goal. There is another kind of paddler for whom paddling is a
means to the end, the end being the Everglades. For this paddler, the goal is to
become intimately acquainted with the Everglades. It is not about the mileage for this
paddler; rather, it is the quality of time spent exploring an area and returning to it
again and again to learn the well kept secrets of the Everglades. The Everglades
call individuals and only some choose to listen. For them, being in the Everglades is
like being in love. It is being so enamored that annoying habits or wild mood swings
can be ignored or even cherished. That is my relationship with the Everglades,
because I am of the second kind of paddler. Paddling, although a wonderful activity
and likely the most appropriate means of exploring the glades, it is simply a means
to an end.
It was with this trip that I came to the above realization and that mileage has little to
do with my quest to explore the Everglades. Typically this time of year we come here
for 9 days at a time and are on the water before the 25th. At first, I felt disappointed
at our itinerary that did not begin until Dec 28th, cut short due to the holidays and
the desire to spend them with family. But then I began to see the significance of this
trip for me. Besides the fact that I was simply exhausted from the previous weeks of
work, I began to look forward to the low mileage, sleeping in a bit later than normal
and the increased time I could spend in one place. I was particularly interested in
spending time near Plover Key where I might find some bird action. Not exactly the
itinerary we hope for, our total mileage was only 48 miles (give or take) including
one day to explore while base camped. We began and ended on Chokoloskee
Island at Outdoor Resorts:
Day 1: Mormon Key, 13.5 miles
Day 2: Mormon Key, explored around Turkey and Plover Keys, 9.5 miles
Day 3: Watsons Place, 4 miles
Day 4: Sweetwater Chickee, 4 miles
Day 5: Lopez River, 12 miles
Day 6: Chokoloskee Island, 4.5 miles
Day 1
My paddling partners were seasoned Everglades paddlers, Vivian in her Hemlock
Kestrel canoe, Mike in her Rapidfire canoe, and me in my Wenonah vagabond
canoe. Thankfully, Mike had made the drive the day before to buy the permits. On
Dec 27th, she stood in line with outward bounders and several other parties all
clamoring for prime camping sites. We wanted to base camp on Turkey Key and
then head up the Chatham River into the backcountry. We did not get what we
wanted, but did come close to it. With the itinerary, we had a little of everything to
look forward to; the gulf and beach camping, incoming tide on the river, ground sites
in the backcountry and a night on a chickee. After two nights of sand and beach
camping, the backcountry would be a welcome change.
By the time sunrise began, the temperature had risen to a whopping 38 degrees.
But what a beautiful, calm morning it was. The sky was cloudless and the air warmed
up to a mild mid-70s. Mike, a tried and true kayaker was testing out her Rapidfire
canoe in the gulf and began to feel more comfortable with it. On another day while
paddling up the Chatham River, she tried Vivian’s ZRE bent shaft canoe paddle and
was thoroughly impressed with how well she moved her boat through the water. At
the time of this writing, she probably has her new canoe paddle in the mail.
Transitioning from kayak to canoe is not everyone’s choice, but I made that choice a
few years ago and never looked back. I loved my kayak, but I love my canoe even
more.
We stopped for a quick break near Split Key, at about the half way point. While
standing and preparing to embark again, we noticed a very large dolphin feeding in
the water nearby. The sand bar we stood upon was quite high and from our
perspective, we could look down at the water and see the entire dolphin underwater.
I noticed that as it approached shallower water, it turned sideways and a couple
times rolled 360 degrees. I could clearly see its eyes in the water as it moved like a
torpedo while skillfully capturing bait fish. Then it approached the sand bar and
zoom, it was moving like the speed of lightning toward us and then circled around,
leaving a donut-shaped wake behind it. An awesome mammal, the dolphin is a fierce
predator to the fish in the water. But for us today, it was a good omen, always a
lucky way to begin a trip.
Heading toward Duck Rock cove area I spotted a couple ducks in the water about
500 ft or so away. From their silhouettes, they appeared to look like loons. I have
heard and seen loons out here before so was not surprised at such a thing. In fact,
after arriving back in Chokoloskee, a captain friend told us that he has seen two
loons in that area quite frequently. Soon, we were nearing Duck Rock where dozens
of white pelicans were resting. With a strong overhead sunlight, their white feathers
appeared to glow, irresistible as I allowed my boat to drift toward the tiny avian
inhabited island and get closer for some photos. Almost twice the size of the brown
pelican, the white pelican appears awkward as it lumbers along the shell mound with
its very short legs. The water glistened as I attempted to capture the highly lit scene
as best as I could from my boat.
After having calm waters for the first 13 miles of the trip, within about a half mile of
Mormon Key, the northwest winds picked up intensely creating an aggressive surf
toward the beach. I paddled ahead of the others to check out the northeast end of
the island. After inspecting it, it did not appear to have enough room for 2 tents and
a comfortable camp area. I got back into my boat with Mike nearby in the water. I
gave Vivian the signal from my VHF radio to stay on course toward the southwest
side of the island, the more popular camp area. By now the winds were gusting to 25
knots and likely a steady 15-20. I felt its full force as I rounded the corner of the
island toward the shoreline where Vivian had reached ground with her boat. Mormon
Key, being littered with clam and conch shells is not a friendly shoreline. With an
incoming tide at the nearby mouth of the Chatham River and the high northwest
winds, the surf was violent. All 100 lb of Mike struggled to paddle against the head
wind and managed to get to ground about 200 feet from Vivian’s boat. Vivian was
there to help Mike control her boat and get it safely up on ground. I paddled over to
Vivian’s boat and brought the bow to a screeching halt. The powerful surf pushed
my boat further and further along the oyster shells as I got one foot out and then
another while bracing the boat. I attempted to bring it up to ground without scraping
it more and finally had it far enough above the waves to keep it dry. Once back at
home several days later, I inspected the damage. From previous shell encounters,
there were numerous scrapes and dings on the hull. But this time, Mormon Key
caused some severe gouges in about 3 different places on the hull. This required
more repair than I was use to, having exposed the Kevlar material below the gel
coat. Damn that Mormon Key!
Finally, we were all grouped together into a wooded area (not in the usual open
beach camp area) where we would seek refuge from the strong winds. We found an
area large enough for both tents and set up our camp. While eating dinner and
watching the sun disappear over the horizon, the temperature had dropped
considerably and the winds continued to blow. We built a campfire but the heat of it
failed to make me comfortable. I was wearing polyester underwear, nylon pants,
Marmot rain paints, long sleeve polyester shirt, fleece vest, Marmot rain jacket, and
fleece gloves and hat and I was still feeling the wind chill. It did not help that I
decided to cook our most difficult meal that evening, having to cut several
vegetables. I could not even enjoy my wine! But, there is a good side to all this; no
bugs and it was only a few weeks earlier we were uncomfortably hot out here as we
sipped our wine under the mosquito bug jackets.
That night, the temperature in our tent reached only 55 degrees and it had gotten
down into the 30s outside. The winds died down mostly and the silence of the low
tide was deep. We slept comfortably in our down bags knowing that tomorrow would
be a leisurely day and no need to get up early in the cold morning. Another
comforting feeling was that we had boiled water before going to bed and filled our
Nissan thermos so that we could enjoy our coffee and breakfast in the warmth of our
tent the next morning. And yet another comfort to us was that we did not expect any
rain on this trip and were confident of the forecast indicating warming temperatures
as the days progressed.
Days 2 and 3
I left Mormon key around 8:30 under a cloudy sky and brisk easterly winds. Still a bit
chilly, I had two layers and was wearing the hat and gloves. Soon after, the gloves
came off and an hour later, I was removing the fleece vest and later, the rain jacket
and pants. Finally, there were warm temperatures for paddling and what a gorgeous
day. Temps reached high 70s, and the seas eventually went dead calm. It was
cloudy most of the morning but cleared up as the day progressed. From Mormon
Key I headed toward the back entrance to Turkey Key. Several years ago while
camping on Turkey Key, we attempted to paddle through the channel on the north
end but it was completely impassable. Now, it is a deep channel which powerboats
can easily access near high tide. I figure the hurricanes shift things around so much
out here that nothing ever stays the same. That is what I love about this place.
I headed around to the tidal area on the northeast side of Turkey. The east winds
were still quite strong and the calmness did not come until after 10 am or so. I
noticed several willets resting on branches sticking out of the very shallow waters
near the mangroves. Thought I would paddle over and see what I could get. The
high tide at the mouth of the Chatham had already passed and water was beginning
to recede in this tidal area. I stayed with the birds for about a half hr before getting
into a situation that would require me to get out of the boat and pull it through the
mud flat. I glided gently over 2-4 in of water toward Buzzard key and rounded that
island toward Plover. This is a very shallow area but with little load in my boat, I
easily drifted along past Plover Key. By now the sky was clear and the seas were
calm. The sky was mostly blue. I was able to pass along the west side of the island
where a couple ospreys were actively fishing. I noticed a nest on the northwest point
of the island and paddled towards it. It was in good light and it appeared I would be
able to get out of the boat and walk to it. The nest was resting high in one of the tall
dead tree trunks, one of many. Soon, I was watching an osprey coming in with nest
branches. This continued several times. With the high sun, I would attempt for those
banking shots where the sun would hit the underside of the osprey’s beautiful wings.
Getting a shot of it coming into the nest was relatively easy, but with the cluttered
tree background, it was impossible to isolate the bird in its nest. Standing on firm
ground, it felt good to be out of the boat with the camera and telephoto lens for a
change, something I rarely get to do when out here, except at the campsites.
Completely content in the warm sun and calm seas, I paddled back to Mormon Key.
That evening, we enjoyed pleasant temperatures with mild breezes coming from the
southeast. The next day began early so we could photograph and fish around the
nearby mouth of the Chatham River with an incoming tide and early morning light.
The Chatham River enters the gulf near the Huston River separated by several
islands and Storter Bay. Large tidal areas and oyster and sand bars intermingle with
the mangroves creating a prime area for fishes and birds. Vivian wanted to fish and I
thought I might see some birds to photograph. The brown pelicans were in great
number in the area, many of them roosting in one particular mangrove island. From
some distance, I noticed several black birds roosting in an adjacent tree and then
watched several black vultures swirling in the sky behind them. All of a sudden, all
the vultures in the trees took off and flew away towards the flying birds. Within
seconds, they were all gone somewhere farther away. The brown pelicans stayed in
the canopy resting while I noticed a few actively diving. A juvy and an adult were
diving in tandem and seemed to like a specific spot for that. I hung with them for
awhile after attaching my flash. The current was strong making it difficult to
photograph much of anything.
Later, I paddled into a creek and started noticing large fish in the water. At first I
watched a school of mullet and then I noticed the redfish. I recognize them from the
black dot(s) on their fin. I always wondered about how different species evolve
distinguishing characteristics. For instance, what is the purpose of the black dot? I
asked Vivian about that and she says it acts to deceive the predators into thinking
the dot is an eye. Consequently, rather than going after the head, the predator goes
for the fin allowing the redfish to more easily escape. Pretty smart! I also noticed
some very large sheepshead in the water, and my understanding is that these are
very tasty fish. I called Vivian to get in there and soon, she was attempting to lure
fish, but unfortunately with no luck. Seems these fickle fish were not hungry at the
moment. Later, we learned that fishermen on Chokoloskee Island were bringing in
very large sheepshead and frying up some awesome tasting meals at the park.
Good for them!
We arrived at Watsons Place where a group of 6 canoeists had stopped for lunch
and one large tent occupied the site. It belonged to a family of powerboaters who
were heading back out to fish when we arrived. Consequently, we had the lay of the
land to set up our 2 tents. Shortly after, a couple kayakers, a brother and sister from
Miami pulled up. Vinni and Weber were their names and as always, our trips
introduce us to people that are as drawn to the Everglades as I am. We enjoyed the
evening at our camp with these 2 young spirits. They were having a great time
(never stopped smiling) despite a broken stove and no hot food to eat and no trees
to attach the hammocks to. After they cleverly set up their hammocks using their
kayak paddles, we shared dinner, wine and brandy with them. In return, they shared
their experiences and stories with us and made our evening enjoyable beyond
expectation. Weber, who would soon be starting medical school was on a quest to
explore the Everglades as much as possible before embarking on that journey. His
sister Vinni, visiting all the way from California was soaking up as much of the glades
as she could. They had a great time and we were happy to have shared some of
that with them.
There are interesting things to see on Watsons Place. We took a short walk behind
our camp and found the old foundation of Watson’s home. Apparently, there is a
gator living in the large structure and a couple kids at camp had spotted it (though
we did not see it). Another camp neighbor told us a bobcat had paid a visit the night
before and came right up the edge of the camp area. That’s not surprising because
there is a very good fresh water source for the animals at the campsite. There is a
large cistern and old maple syrup vat and both serve as watering holes for the
animals (I would not consider it filterable water by the way). We watched several
black vultures, one turkey vulture and a family of raccoons drinking from the water,
all while several people were camped nearby. We also saw a small screech owl
perched near Vinni and Weber's hammocks. I think it would be awesome to spend a
night without other campers and at dark, sit outside and quietly watch the animal
show.
Day 4 and 5
We took our time getting off Watsons Place, leaving behind our 2 friends and about
14 powerboaters. The sun was already high once we got on the water about 8:30
am. It was strange leaving our campsites so late in the morning, relatively speaking.
We are use to longer distances and getting started by 7-7:30 am, but this trip was
very different. We had no mileage to cover and could take our time and that was fine
with me. I had been battling a slight stomach ailment (not so bad as to think it was
the flu) and I suspect it came from something I had eaten. I had not been drinking as
much water as usual, but then again, I never felt thirsty or dehydrated, probably
because of the coolish temperatures we had been experiencing. It was not until the
next morning that I felt normal again, at which time my appetite came back in a big
way. Making up for lost time I guess.
The incoming made the ride up the Chatham an easy one. Winds were mild from the
southeast picking up to a brisk 10-15 knots by the time we reached Sweetwater
around noon. I stopped at the sand bar just past Watsons Place to photograph a
couple juvy white ibises that were busy feeding. Once in the creek leading to the
chickee, we passed four kayakers that had just left the chickee. We came to the
empty chickee to set up an early camp and then head out for some exploring. The
stiff winds made tent pitching a challenge. Best way we found to do that is to throw
some dry bags inside the tent while you rope off the corners. After a quick lunch, we
headed out to one of the creeks behind the chickee. From our GPS map, the creek
appeared to wind around and connect to Huston Bay. We thought we could follow it
but no further than 500-800 feet into the narrow passage that our course was
heading farther away from the map location. We would not find that route (which
likely does not exist) on this day. We heard that the sweetwater (freshwater spring)
was somewhere back in that area. A captain friend told us that the sweetwater came
out at the entrance of the creek leading to the chickee and that there was a deep
hole where it was located. Not sure about these things, but the area was called
sweetwater for a reason.
The winds gradually died down and we enjoyed another fine evening. Three older
women (older than us!) came in that afternoon to camp on the other platform. You
meet the most interesting people out here. They had gotten a bit lost trying to find
the creek leading to the chickee. The location of the chickee icon on the park map is
very deceptive and it is easy to get confused. Consequently, the ladies flagged a
boat captain and he was kind enough to give them a tow to the chickee, since it was
getting late in the afternoon. Nevertheless, they were having a great time and one of
the things you learn out here is never be afraid to ask for help.
The next morning, we got on the water at our usual time to beat the winds on the
bays. Instead of taking the wilderness waterway route through the bays into Lopez
River, we took our new favorite route that we refer to as “north water”. Water was
very low in certain spots but we had no problems getting through this isolated area.
We heard occasional powerboats running across the large Huston and Oyster Bays,
but we were away from all that. It was only the 3 of us and plenty of birds around.
Nesting osprey, several rafts of coots and several herons and egrets were around to
entertain us. We had a bonus seeing our first otter in the Everglades. We watched it
swim or slither up and down through one of the small bays we paddled across. The
head and midsection alternated out of the water as the otter swam expertly in
shallow waters in a pattern similar to a human doing the breaststroke.
Once we came out of the last creek that empties into the north end of Sunday Bay,
the southeast winds were strong. This meant a backwind or following seas for us as
we crossed toward marker 125. The winds gusted above 20 knots. I decided to not
turn into crooked creek that connects to Lopez River and instead took the
alternative route that I usually take in order to avoid the powerboat traffic. The
hairpin turns in crooked creek do not slow those boats down much and I would
rather avoid them. Unfortunately, this meant heading directly into the strong winds
on two turns, each covering a distance of several hundred feet. Once on the Lopez
River, the waters were more protected from the winds. We arrived early at the
campsite, which is only 4 miles from Chokoloskee Island. This campsite is one of my
favorites and if I have to sit in my camp chair and enjoy it throughout the afternoon
without needing to paddle anywhere, I can live with that. It is not about the mileage.
During our relaxing afternoon, we received visits from a group of kayakers that
stopped for a break and later, a lone kayaker who came in around 4:30 pm to camp.
He set up on the other side of the cistern and we did not see him again. By that time,
the mosquitoes were out, but not enough to wear the bug jacket. In fact, I never took
the bug jacket out on this trip and only sprayed my clothes with Deet on Watsons
Place. The sun set peacefully over the beautiful Lopez River and finally, it was
completely silent. Earlier, powerboats had passed by in high number, as usual. But
by dusk, they had all gotten back to the marinas or were already in their
backcountry campsites. This is the best time to be on the Lopez River. Throughout
the night, the only sound came from the barred owls saying “Who cooks for you”
Day 6
We were on the water before sunrise. We took our time with some fishing at the
mouth of Lopez arrived at Chokoloskee Island in time for breakfast at Havana Café.
Despite the low mileage of the trip, we had new experiences, made new
acquaintances, and I photographed more birds than usual for a trip. I lay awake in
my tent during the early morning on Lopez and could not help think that I was not yet
ready to leave this place. The Everglades is my journey, one paddle stroke at a time.
In Love With the Everglades: Our New Years Trip
2010-11
2010-11
| All Rights Reserved. Copyright Constance Mier, 2007-12 |
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