Some people go to church to get closer to God. I go to the Everglades with my canoe. As life’s daily grind and clutter
disappears, the only obligations in my mind are the compass bearing, the tides, and the winds. My mind is clear and free
of thoughts other than what surrounds me, making me much more attentive to the Everglades. Someone once said in
reference to the Everglades, “This is God’s country because he can’t give it away”. Yes it is.
The Everglades are a mysterious power. It is the strength of the tides and how they influence the fishes and birds. Why
are there so many bait fish congregating in one area where an army of sharks come to feed on them? It is the weather
and how it changes on a whim. How does a slight change in atmospheric pressure have such an influence on the animals
in the water? It is the combined effects of the winds and the tides on the water currents that run through this country. Why
is it that the current runs in one direction on Alligator Creek but the opposite on Plate creek at approximately the same
time? How can the low tide at the mouth of the Lostsmans River be scheduled at 10:41 am, yet we paddle against a
current at 12 pm? It is the rising sun and how it provokes the birds to begin a morning flight to a feeding area. And it is the
setting sun that when it begins its descent, alerts the bugs to their feeding time. It is a rhythm that has great depth and
only a higher power could explain accurately. Can we ever figure this place out?
I come here to photograph animals and the beauty that splays out in front of my boat while I paddle the great waters of the
gulf or backcountry bays. One morning, I am in my boat while hundreds of white pelicans with their 7-9 foot wingspans fly
overhead from Plover Key. That is part of the rhythm of this place, but will I see it tomorrow or the next day; maybe or
maybe not? While nature’s rhythm often reveals itself in obvious ways (moon phases), it cannot be accurately understood
in its totality. There are infinite variables, some of which I am certain we are unaware. The Everglades is only beginning to
recover from a potent dose of freeze that began on new year’s day this year and lasted weeks. The fish genocide was
unlike anything most of us had ever seen. And it was only 5 years ago that hurricane Wilma created a 30-ft storm surge
that wiped out coastal mangrove shorelines on a whim. How is the Everglades rhythm affected by this? We’ll never truly
know all the intimate details of this place because it is constantly changing. It is beyond us and that's what keeps us
coming back again and again.
I will keep trying, methodically taking notes and observing. And while I do that, I will try to capture the Everglades with my
photos. And I do this with gratefulness and give thanks every moment that we are out there. And so it was with our
Thanksgiving holiday trip. It was hot continuously, the negative low tide at Lostmans River slowed us down a bit, we
overestimated our fitness on the first couple of days and used our Tiger Balm generously at night in our tent, we wore our
personal bug suits more often than we preferred, and we shared a tight campsite with a party of fishermen. But, we loved
every minute of it. It was hot, but we had lots of clouds, the low tide at Lostmans gave us a chance to take the time to walk
up to the old ranger’s station and see what was left of it after hurricane Wilma, we were grateful for the long miles the first
couple days as it gave us quality time in the backcountry especially in Gopher Creek, although the bug suits made us
sweat more, we avoided the bug raids, and the guys we shared a campsite with were good ol’ boys that shared several
laughs and pickled eggs.
We left Outdoor Resorts from the east side at about 8:30 am on Wednesday morning, and headed out Rabbit Key pass
into the gulf and southeast to Turkey Key, approximately 16 miles. The next day, we left Turkey early at 7 am and paddled
to the Lostmans River, and up into the backcountry to Onion Key and eventually Lostmans Five. That was about 18.5
miles. The next day, on the water early again, we arrived on Cannon Bay at 9 am, learned that Darwins Place was clear,
so we headed there to set up our camp. The remains of the day were spent in nearby Gopher Creek. The next morning, I
got on the water at 6:15 am, paddled into Cannon Bay and waited for the bird flocks to fly toward Gopher Creek. After
which, we paddled across Chevelier Bay toward Deer Island to take a new route to Sunday Bay chickee. That was about
12 miles. We spent our last night on the chickee and headed home the next day. Here are a few photos to illustrate the
highlights of the trip.
disappears, the only obligations in my mind are the compass bearing, the tides, and the winds. My mind is clear and free
of thoughts other than what surrounds me, making me much more attentive to the Everglades. Someone once said in
reference to the Everglades, “This is God’s country because he can’t give it away”. Yes it is.
The Everglades are a mysterious power. It is the strength of the tides and how they influence the fishes and birds. Why
are there so many bait fish congregating in one area where an army of sharks come to feed on them? It is the weather
and how it changes on a whim. How does a slight change in atmospheric pressure have such an influence on the animals
in the water? It is the combined effects of the winds and the tides on the water currents that run through this country. Why
is it that the current runs in one direction on Alligator Creek but the opposite on Plate creek at approximately the same
time? How can the low tide at the mouth of the Lostsmans River be scheduled at 10:41 am, yet we paddle against a
current at 12 pm? It is the rising sun and how it provokes the birds to begin a morning flight to a feeding area. And it is the
setting sun that when it begins its descent, alerts the bugs to their feeding time. It is a rhythm that has great depth and
only a higher power could explain accurately. Can we ever figure this place out?
I come here to photograph animals and the beauty that splays out in front of my boat while I paddle the great waters of the
gulf or backcountry bays. One morning, I am in my boat while hundreds of white pelicans with their 7-9 foot wingspans fly
overhead from Plover Key. That is part of the rhythm of this place, but will I see it tomorrow or the next day; maybe or
maybe not? While nature’s rhythm often reveals itself in obvious ways (moon phases), it cannot be accurately understood
in its totality. There are infinite variables, some of which I am certain we are unaware. The Everglades is only beginning to
recover from a potent dose of freeze that began on new year’s day this year and lasted weeks. The fish genocide was
unlike anything most of us had ever seen. And it was only 5 years ago that hurricane Wilma created a 30-ft storm surge
that wiped out coastal mangrove shorelines on a whim. How is the Everglades rhythm affected by this? We’ll never truly
know all the intimate details of this place because it is constantly changing. It is beyond us and that's what keeps us
coming back again and again.
I will keep trying, methodically taking notes and observing. And while I do that, I will try to capture the Everglades with my
photos. And I do this with gratefulness and give thanks every moment that we are out there. And so it was with our
Thanksgiving holiday trip. It was hot continuously, the negative low tide at Lostmans River slowed us down a bit, we
overestimated our fitness on the first couple of days and used our Tiger Balm generously at night in our tent, we wore our
personal bug suits more often than we preferred, and we shared a tight campsite with a party of fishermen. But, we loved
every minute of it. It was hot, but we had lots of clouds, the low tide at Lostmans gave us a chance to take the time to walk
up to the old ranger’s station and see what was left of it after hurricane Wilma, we were grateful for the long miles the first
couple days as it gave us quality time in the backcountry especially in Gopher Creek, although the bug suits made us
sweat more, we avoided the bug raids, and the guys we shared a campsite with were good ol’ boys that shared several
laughs and pickled eggs.
We left Outdoor Resorts from the east side at about 8:30 am on Wednesday morning, and headed out Rabbit Key pass
into the gulf and southeast to Turkey Key, approximately 16 miles. The next day, we left Turkey early at 7 am and paddled
to the Lostmans River, and up into the backcountry to Onion Key and eventually Lostmans Five. That was about 18.5
miles. The next day, on the water early again, we arrived on Cannon Bay at 9 am, learned that Darwins Place was clear,
so we headed there to set up our camp. The remains of the day were spent in nearby Gopher Creek. The next morning, I
got on the water at 6:15 am, paddled into Cannon Bay and waited for the bird flocks to fly toward Gopher Creek. After
which, we paddled across Chevelier Bay toward Deer Island to take a new route to Sunday Bay chickee. That was about
12 miles. We spent our last night on the chickee and headed home the next day. Here are a few photos to illustrate the
highlights of the trip.
With the sun toasting the gulf waters, high
key photo opps presented themselves with
the active birds near New Turkey Key.
key photo opps presented themselves with
the active birds near New Turkey Key.
Waiting for the water to come in at the
mouth of Lostmans River.
mouth of Lostmans River.
Thanksgiving holiday, 2010: Lostmans River Loop
As always we are on the water before sunrise.This is truly the best time in the Everglades. We
left Lostsmans Five as the sun rose on cloud covered skies. On this day, we wanted to spend
several hours in Gopher Creek, so we spent the earliest hours of the day paddling a short
distance to Darwins Place where we set up camp for a third night.
left Lostsmans Five as the sun rose on cloud covered skies. On this day, we wanted to spend
several hours in Gopher Creek, so we spent the earliest hours of the day paddling a short
distance to Darwins Place where we set up camp for a third night.
We paddled through creeks, Alligator and Plate, crossed Dads and Alligator Bay and eventually into Cannon Bay under total cloud cover. The
clouds present fascinating shapes and designs reflecting on the large waters, a metallic liquid. I was eager to get into Gopher Creek. Today
would be a good day to photograph, as long as the rain stayed away. The cloud cover stayed most of the day, with some short periods of gusty
winds and rain lasting no more than 10 minutes. By 2 pm, the clouds had dissipated and the creek was surrounded by blues and greens.
clouds present fascinating shapes and designs reflecting on the large waters, a metallic liquid. I was eager to get into Gopher Creek. Today
would be a good day to photograph, as long as the rain stayed away. The cloud cover stayed most of the day, with some short periods of gusty
winds and rain lasting no more than 10 minutes. By 2 pm, the clouds had dissipated and the creek was surrounded by blues and greens.
The diffuse light from the clouded sky gave me the opportunity to practice using flash. I love the whiteness of the sky as a background for the
birds. Gopher Creek is lined with large dead trees (remnants of a hurricane long past), providing high-level resting spots for the tricolor heron,
little blue herons, white ibis and wood stork. With nice clean background, they were reluctant targets of my camera lens.
birds. Gopher Creek is lined with large dead trees (remnants of a hurricane long past), providing high-level resting spots for the tricolor heron,
little blue herons, white ibis and wood stork. With nice clean background, they were reluctant targets of my camera lens.
The water levels were high, leaving little space for wading birds to feed along the muddy banks of the creek. I did not see a resting gator until later
in the day after the sun appeared and the reptiles could warm themselves. The snowy egret with its loud yellow feet and the roseate spoonbill with
its audacious pink feathers stand out so beautifully against the dark mangrove forests of Gopher Creek.
in the day after the sun appeared and the reptiles could warm themselves. The snowy egret with its loud yellow feet and the roseate spoonbill with
its audacious pink feathers stand out so beautifully against the dark mangrove forests of Gopher Creek.
Just before the sun came out in the afternoon, I honed in on a couple of chattering belted kingfishers. They are speedy little things and rarely do I
get an opportunity to photograph one. But these two were flitting around a few dead branches in one spot of the creek. It so happened that I was
able to stake out the boat in a spot that would provide frontlight when the sun decided to come out. In the meantime, the two birds chased each
other around 3 or 4 different perches, all within good range of my 400mm lens. And the winds were in a direction that the fast little birds were
landing and taking off in my direction. Their playful flights became a recognizable pattern and soon I was able to capture some kingfisher action.
get an opportunity to photograph one. But these two were flitting around a few dead branches in one spot of the creek. It so happened that I was
able to stake out the boat in a spot that would provide frontlight when the sun decided to come out. In the meantime, the two birds chased each
other around 3 or 4 different perches, all within good range of my 400mm lens. And the winds were in a direction that the fast little birds were
landing and taking off in my direction. Their playful flights became a recognizable pattern and soon I was able to capture some kingfisher action.
We spent a night at Darwins Place with some fishermen
(see left photo above). The next morning, we paddled
across Chevelier Bay toward Deer Island and the
entrance into Sweetwater. We passed the entrance and
continued into the small bays located east of the larger
Huston and Oyster Bays. Through them and a few
creeks, we came out onto Sunday Bay near the
chickee, where we spent our last night. the next
morning, we paddled back to Chokoloskee Island with
the beautiful morning light. We watched dolphins
feeding along the mangroves, flocks of birds flying and
bait fish jumping. Fantastic trip. (the above 3 photos
were taken by Alex O.).
(see left photo above). The next morning, we paddled
across Chevelier Bay toward Deer Island and the
entrance into Sweetwater. We passed the entrance and
continued into the small bays located east of the larger
Huston and Oyster Bays. Through them and a few
creeks, we came out onto Sunday Bay near the
chickee, where we spent our last night. the next
morning, we paddled back to Chokoloskee Island with
the beautiful morning light. We watched dolphins
feeding along the mangroves, flocks of birds flying and
bait fish jumping. Fantastic trip. (the above 3 photos
were taken by Alex O.).
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Turkey Key campsite.
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